Above: First catch of the day. Leading the super-classic 'Gidiyorum' (VII/6b), an impeccable route on steep slabs and flakes, with an overhang thrown in for good measure.
We had descended less than fifty metres from the crags when we heard the scream split the balmy afternoon silence. Turning anxiously around, we saw that Eda, who had been top-roping Gidiyorum, was no longer visible near the top. Little more than two months ago, someone had very nearly fallen to their death in an abseiling accident from the top of the same route, reportedly due to an error of ropework - fortunately, they survived a 20 metre plus fall but were nonetheless severely injured. We hastened to find out what had just happened and the answer was quite surprising: having reached the belay, from the top rope, Eda's belayer had released the gri-gri and triggered a free-fall of about 5 metres...that this was a 'joke' I found quite shocking. But then again - 'Psycho' was on belay.
* * *
That morning, he had kindly picked me up from Goztepe, where I was enjoying the early morning sun and chewing on a simit, watching the dolmuses roll into the busy bus stop (beside the motorway) as the city slowly came to life and realised it was a Saturday. The simitci was doing a very modest business from the flow of pedestrians from the footbridge, for it was Ramazan; I noticed a small stove of compressed gas tucked into the side of the stall and debated whether to order a cay as well as the bread. I decided not to: cay is not generally in drinkable form during these long days of Ramazan (although it could most certainly varnish the floor or clean out blocked pipes). The drivers of these little metallic blue boxes were 'drumming up' business in their own unique way, jostling with each other for position in the queue, blaring their horns to entice the public inside and elaborately faking their departure by repeatedly revving the engine and grinding the gear box in a way that although loud enough to attract the attention of even the stone deaf, must have mangled the innards of the dolmus worse than an urfa kebab can mangle the intestines of a grown man. Then finally, and most reluctantly, slipping into gear and merging into the crush of traffic riding up the E5 in the direction of Pendik and Gebze.
My relief at being in the car and out of the hot sun soon subsided once Psycho assuming a cruising velocity in the central lane, cutting right and left to under/(over) take anything else that moved. A Winston cigarette burning in the corner of his mouth, he would accelerate towards any traffic (or roadworks) blocking his lane, and at the last moment veer laterally into any available space in order to pass them. In Istanbul, this is known as 'makas' and Psycho was one of the very best practitioners of the art. As we shot past all comers in the traffic, including some rather overloaded trucks and a horse and cart, I wondered if it would be possible to somehow bribe him to slow down. Probably the only solution would have been to take over the driving at gunpoint, such was the mask of determination etched upon his face. In the next half hour, Psycho contrived to pick up three other people, lose one packet of cigarettes while loading rucksacks into the trunk, send his girlfriend to buy another pack while we waited on the hard shoulder, and burn through half of the new pack while maintaining a steady hurtling motion - forwards, sideways, or both together ('capras') - as though we were on a fairground horror ride. A steady stream of swear words were uttered, replete with waves of the arm as he passed other vehicles (it was always their fault, the use of 'they' suggesting it was a conspiracy against Psycho, which incidentally I would have sided with). Fifty metres into the roadworks between Gebze and Tavsanli - which had closed five out of six lanes on the dual carriageway, as we ran the gauntlet with a heavy truck into the narrowing funnel of traffic cones and oncoming traffic diverted from the other side, he suddenly exclaimed: 'Aman aman! They have closed the road!' It was perhaps lucky that 'they' had, for at last it forced him to slow down.
Above: In the lower crux of Gidiyorum where a nice undercling gives some respite after a delicate progression on small, shiny 'crimpers'.
Today's purpose was to form part of my promised 'Quartet' - a concept that reflected my desire to find the 'best' routes to climb in the grade VII to VIII- bracket (ie the 6b to 6c range) and photograph the climbing. Fortunately, Eda and Berrak were on hand with high resolution cameras as we finished a small banquet beneath the trees consisting of borek, menemen, tomatos, white cheese and lashings of cay. Nevertheless, it is a thankless task to reduce the twenty or so fine climbs in this bracket to just four. Iowa style, we took a straw poll and elected to head to the right-hand side, a sector where I have not been recently due to the hot weather and lack of shade later in the day. It was a good decision, as it turned out, because frankly speaking I had tired of the cave sector even though I wanted to go back and attempt Pelikan (VIII-/6c), one of only three routes I have not yet done in that area, and photograph a repeat of Patir Patir (VII/6b), one of the longest and best routes in the valley, though not free of excitement (see recent post, Flowers for the Leader).
Above: Burc nearing the top of Gidiyorum in pleasant windy conditions. The yellow and seldom-climbed arete of Whisky (VI+/6a) continues up to the left.
In sport climbing, it is always good to surprise yourself with some new routes, whether you think they are feasible or not (the latter being generally the case for this grade in Ballikayalar). So as I stepped into the initial moves of Gidiyorum, which I had climbed once before last autumn, I was glad for the change and found myself concentrating more but also feeling relaxed and fresh (relief from the journey, and the previous day's haircut and head massage in Istanbul playing their part).
Above: On the powerful crux of Koprualti (VI+/6a), a route which would no doubt be a grade harder if it was more sustained. Like most tougher routes on this small north-facing sector, it receives only a few tries but personally I found it to be excellent, with steep grade V climbing above the crux offering superb views up the valley.
It was on the way around the cliff that the thought entered my mind to try one of the classic routes, which had been on my mind for quite a long time. Originally known as Key, these days the route is more commonly referred to as Buyuk Balkon and goes at a grade of around VII+ or 6b+ (in my view) with one crux in the first four metres and a second obvious one negotiating the overhang. There are many overhanging routes now in the valley, but one of the most neglected is called Kuzey Yildizi/North Star and this is even more overhanging than Key. A crucial hold has fallen off North Star, making for a highly speculative crux of around VIII/6c+ to break through the overhang. It is still a fascinating thuggish challenge which, no doubt, Psycho and others will enjoy.
Above: An earthworm's perspective of Buyuk Balkon. A relaxed Burc is on belay, while I investigate the back of the overhang in case there is a route there up through the cave. Below: Addressing the lower crux where good footholds are scarce on the water-polished rock.
Below: The 'easier' middle section below the overhang has a slabby positive aspect and there are some good holds in the obvious crack while splits the wall. However, as with most of the route, the 'key' is in the small footholds for which you need 'the confidence of experience' on slabs, especially if trad climbing a la Turem!
Below: Checking out the overhang and surmounting it. There are two bolts on the upper wall and then a 4 metre unprotected section of V+ leading to the belay chain. I had no option but to han solo this part, but would recommend you take some stoppers and cams and make this into a composite 'bolted trad' route and be safe!
Notes on the right-hand routes:
Gidiyorum, VII, 6b. A super-classic! Re-bolted in 2008 the route's lower crux is now 'safe' from groundfalls. Can also be trad-climbed in the spirit of the firstr ascentionists.
Kuzey Yildizi, VIII-, VIII. Neglected nowadays due to the loss of crucial holds around the huge overhang. I will add some photos of my climb in the near future.
Koprualti, VI+. Strenuous for the grade, crux in the first two bolts. Leader should clip the first bolt from the ground, as a fall from the path could be disastrous.
Key/Buyuk Balkon, VII+/6b+. Hard but absorbing slab crux for 4m as soon as you leave the ground, which then eases up cracks before a traverse left under the overhang and some difficult moves to gain the crucial jug higher up and the final two bolts. Easier but unbolted groove/chimney section of 4 metres leads to the fixed belay.
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